Capture One and Lightroom Revisited

As you may recall, I did a post on RAW image processors earlier. Actually, quite a bit earlier. Since then I have revised my opinion. If you haven’t read that post already, it’s probably good background for what I’m about to say.

Path to Bokeh

Path to Bokeh

In that post, I gave Lightroom the nod based on the integration between the digital asset management and RAW image processing functions. Since then, Capture One has come out with several new releases (current is version 6.3.3), and Adobe has made a public beta of Lightroom 4 available for download on their site. Aperture moves along via Apple’s software update functionality and the RAW image support is built into MacOS so it doesn’t cause version number changes in the product. However, there have been few major feature set changes to Aperture recently.

The Contenders

The field has not really changed a great deal for shrink-wrapped closed-source RAW image processing software. We’re a couple of revisions down the road since my last post, but it’s still largely the same people.

My Gripe With Adobe

I think Adobe makes great products and they seem to be able too squeeze a lot of responsiveness out of their code. Lightroom is a very responsive tool and delivers on its promise in terms of image quality … for the most part. My gripe is that Adobe has seen the future and it is both consumer-orientation and video. Neither of these apply to me, so I’m a bit disappointed. On the plus side, Adobe has taken a page from DxO and has compiled a list of camera/lens profiles and they are able to apply some pretty nifty corrections for lens distortion.

How About Apple?

Apple is in the same boat as Adobe: They won’t really get much uptake with Aperture if it doesn’t pay some heed to the prosumer market. I believe both companies have learned from their pro video products that the only people who will buy them are smart enough to use them and that the world is not filled with that kind of customer.

And Phase One?

Here’s where it gets interesting. Phase One sells really expensive digital backs for medium format cameras. In the early days of their product, they had to develop software to convert from their proprietary file format to something Photoshop could use (i.e., TIFF files). Some genius at Phase One figured out that a lot of their image processing code could also be applied to RAW images from DSLRs and so began the Capture One Pro product. Remember, Phase One does not live or die by the sales of their capture and image processing software. A sale is a sale, but they stay pretty close to home — still digital imaging.

In another place, at another time, a product called iView MediaPro was created. This was a good digital asset manager, worked well to add metadata to images, and even helped create slideshows and Web presentations. The product was acquired by Microsoft and rebranded “Microsoft Expression Media.” You’ll see where all this is going in a minute. Finally, Microsoft offloaded it to Phase One who have made some tweaks and are bringing the user interface close to what you find in Capture One.

Dinosours

Road Art

DxO Optics

This is a bit of a side trip, but I became fascinated with DxO Optics Pro some time ago. DxO Labs are the people who write extensive test suites for measuring performance of sensors (DxOMark). They have also compiled a comprehensive set of camera body/lens profiles for popular DSLRs. Their results looked so good I couldn’t help but try them out. But, in the long run, I found that the image quality wasn’t up to my expectations and although DxO turned out eye candy for results, it wasn’t going to work as a full-time RAW processor. Add to that the fact that there is no digital asset management and it’s a bit of a workflow killer. There have been a number of releases since I last purchased and I demo’ed a few, but still find DxO Optics cumbersome and not up to expectations.

My Current Digital Workflow

I have stayed on the upgrade carousel with the three software manufacturers I mentioned. I stopped upgrading DxO to full licensed versions because it just wasn’t fitting my needs. For the purposes of this post, I won’t discuss Aperture, except to say that if you are bought into the iLife thing, Aperture dovetails into this completely. It has the greatest UI, but there is virtually no muscle-memory shared between Aperture and Photoshop. That can be a big deal if you rely on you keyboard to change tools and need your pointing device to stay a moveable brush.

Lightroom

I have moved away from Lightroom because, although I understand and agree with some of the decisions Adobe has made, I find myself “fighting the system” way too often. This may change with Lightroom 4, which has more functionality in the adjustment brushes, but it doesn’t look that way just now.

Real Strengths for Lightroom:

  • Responsive UI. I can’t say enough for this. When you move an adjustment brush in Lightroom, there is no lag in the UI feedback. When you spot something, the results are visible immediately.
  • Great integration with Photoshop and many plugins. This is “automatic,” so when you do an “Edit in Photoshop” or “Edit in Nik Color Efex,” that’s just what happens and the result is a TIFF file in the same catalog (assuming you have things set up right).
  • Good export module. Getting your “developed” files into JPEG form for delivery is simple, and you can use cookbook recipes to tailor the size, format, and quality of the image. Even better, you can tell Lightroom to prompt you for an output folder.
  • Good filename parsing when renaming. Adobe does just a bit more to help preserve the original filename when you rename files on import or later. So, for example, if my original file is _T009867.CRW, I can rename it using custom options to get la_model_shoot_009867.CRW. Some other programs fail on leading underscores.
  • Improved adjustment brush. The adjustment brush and gradient tools are great. In fact, I think they are the best in the industry. I don’t find that their smart mask works very well, despite the cool demos you can find on the Web. That said, slapping a graduated ND on an image with the gradient is easy-peasy. It’s hard to resist using these tools, but you can become too absorbed and worse, you can start wasting time doing things in Lightroom that are better accomplished in Photoshop. Still, I feel adjustments on RAW data beats performing these adjustments on pixel (raster) data. If you need fine masking, they you will absolutely need Photoshop. Otherwise, it’s worth giving these tools a whirl.
  • Workflow: It’s one-stop-shopping. You have to switch “modes” to get from your Library to your Develop module. Modal applications are not the very best UI design, but you’re not changing applications — just modes.

Weaknesses for Lightroom

There aren’t a lot of holes in the Lightroom story. There are things I simply don’t care about as a still photographer, yet I pay for them and they take up screen real estate. In short, features that make me say, “meh.” Some things are just missing. For example:

  • I’m not crazy about the Publish feature. Sure, there are some people who want to share everything they do from the moment they get up in the morning until they are fast asleep on Facebook and twitter. I’m not one of those. I pick and choose what I want to share, and it doesn’t belong in my working image catalog. This is, to me, UI fluff.
  • Print module. There have been reviews — often from NAPP (not the most unbiased source) — that claim that the print module is phenomenal. I don’t print anymore because I deliver everything I do in digital form. I don’t even print proofs. In this regard, I may be in the minority, but I regard the print module as uninteresting.
  • Web module. Really? Do we want one-off Web sites for every group of images we do? Well I don’t. I have a Web site and put what images I want on it. The purpose of my Web site is not cookie-cutter and I suspect the same holds true for many serious photographers. Again, a whole module that is uninteresting to me.
  • Video-oriented features. I just don’t care. If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that I’m not a videographer. There are some very talented videographers out there and then there are a bunch of people with DSLRs who want to use video as another service they provide. If you are a wedding photographer, you may find this a great extra revenue stream. It’s not something I use.
  • Layers. This is a glaring Adobe-you-know-how-to-do-this omission. It’s not like they didn’t have experience with how the market reacted to layers when they introduced them into Photoshop. Relying on a third-party plugin to patch this hole is, to me, shipping an incomplete product.

Capture One / Phase One Media Pro

I’ve changed to this setup because I am getting better image quality more consistently using these tools than I was with Lightroom. Images seem more resilient to rescue in Capture One and metadata is easier to enter once you get the hang of it in Media Pro. Over the years, I’ve dipped in and out of Capture One and Media Pro, but it hasn’t really stuck. Now that Phase One owns Media Pro, it’s a heck of a lot easier to use in conjunction with Capture One.

Let me digress just a moment to talk about image quality. This is a catch phrase that is used without a strict definition all over the Web and in a great deal of marketing material. At this point, I don’t think there is a true definition of image quality. Let me talk about what image quality is not. It is not how good an image looks on your computer. You can sex up any image to look great on the screen by increasing the contrast, saturation, and by sharpening it. That doesn’t have a thing to do with the quality of the full size image and it’s crucial to grasp that. If your brother-in-law says “oh, wow!” it doesn’t mean your image quality is good. Image quality can’t be defined as how great an image looks when you print it in a certain size, as you will have (again) made certain decisions with respect to what to mess with for a pleasing print in that size on that printer. For me, image quality is about resilience — i.e., can the image be repurposed with few ill effects. My definition may not fit with everyone’s, but my starting point is to get an image to what I imagined when I pressed the shutter release. No pixel out of place, no lens distortion that was unintentional, just a great rendering of the original image data.

Strengths for Capture One / Media Pro

Again, not a lot of holes in the story. Most, if not all, of the features you expect are there.

  • Great control of color balance of the entire image, and of individual color ranges. This last part is contained in the Capture One Color Editor under the Advanced tab. It took me a long time to learn to love this — it’s analogous to the Lightroom HSL / Color / B&W panel where you can target individual color ranges in the image and change things like hue rotation, saturation, etc. You can control the range very precisely and the controls work to make very subtle, and natural adjustments. This is in keeping with my philosophy of not changing up the whole image (purple trees, green skies, etc.). Less is often more. More on this later.
  • Superior tethered capture. If you aren’t doing tethered capture, this won’t matter to you, but Phase One has made a specialty of it, and where a camera feature can be accessed, they do. The manufacturers are notoriously tight-lipped about the interfaces to their cameras for who knows what reasons, but you can perform most functions you need on the computer — importantly, white balance and exposure. These are key in setting up a shoot so you can run through a set of test exposures, not saving them to disk until you are ready, then get out of the “composition mode” and start the shoot.
  • Cool “focus mask” tool that helps you see whether you really nailed the focus. If you’re shooting at wider apertures, this can make an edit go much more quickly.
  • Layers. You’ve already read that I like layers. I see them as a key part of image adjustment, and the fact that you can mask the layers makes them much more flexible. Capture One is not Photoshop and there is no sense pretending it is. Cutting intricate masks still has to be done in Photoshop, but you can do a great number of adjustments that deserve to be done on the RAW bits inside Capture One using layers. Note that not every control available in the software is available on a layer. For example, you can do sharpening on a layer, but can’t set the radius and threshold. Noise reduction cannot be applied on a layer; Lightroom 4 Beta allows you to do noise reduction with an adjustment brush. I won’t catalog everything, except to say that both Capture One and Lightroom place some restrictions on what can be done in a local adjustment.
  • Chromatic aberration elimination. This is something I would expect Lightroom to have better than Capture One. But I would be wrong. Capture One handles both CA and purple fringing better than Lightroom. I like to shoot with wide angle lenses and fisheyes in contrasty situations. I get chromatic aberration — it’s the nature of the beast. Images that Lightroom (and thus, Adobe Camera RAW) could not fix were a snap in Capture one. This alone might have made my decision.
  • Keystone correction. Architectural photographers and those of us who can’t always line the sensor plane up exactly with the plane of the subject will like this. It allows straightening converging lines that are the result of shooting from below or the side of an object that should obviously be rectilinear. For example, a window or door. Keystone correction can be vertical, horizontal, or both.
  • Noise reduction is very detailed.
  • Filtering images can be much easier in Media Pro. It’s an acquired taste, but often I get more relevant results with Media Pro than Lightroom’s Library module.
  • Entering metadata feels more natural in Media Pro. This is a very subjective thing, but I find myself liking Media Pro for metadata entry, which is kind of the grunt work in the process. Anything that can reduce the pain of metadata entry is something I like. I can’t quantify it, but Media Pro just feels more right as a tool for this.

Weaknesses for Capture One / Media Pro

  • So-so integration. Capture One and Media Pro came from two different places and changes made in one place are not immediately shown in the other. For example, if I flag something as 5 stars in Capture One, then switch to Media Pro, I won’t see that reflected in the catalog. It’s easy to export that change to Media Pro, but it’s an extra step that can be forgotten. Similarly, metadata I change in Media Pro is not reflected in Capture One unless I sync the metadata from inside Media Pro. Again, not seamless.
  • UI responsiveness/feel. While reasonable, neither Capture One nor Media Pro are as snappy as Lightroom. Particularly noticeable as slow are spotting and drawing masks on layers. Rendering large images (as opposed to thumbnails) in Media Pro is pokey to the point where I seldom do it.
  • Lack of baked-in set of camera/lens profiles for DSLRs. If you have one of the Phase One products, you’re in business — Capture One knows all about you. If you have a DSLR, there aren’t a set of prebuilt camera/lens profiles to adjust for distortion, light falloff, sharpness falloff or other lens issues.

Wrap-Up

As you can see, the situation is much the same as when I wrote my last blog post about these tools. There is no perfect tool. In some ways, it depends on which features matter most to you and how natural you find them to use. As I said, I am now using Capture One and Media Pro. I had to spend the time to learn the keyboard shortcuts (which are similar in some cases to Adobe) and the workflow. It seemed hopelessly broken at first, but now is second nature. Had I judged the quality of Capture One based on the 10-minute test drive, I would have rejected it and moved on.

Lightroom, by contrast, leverages a good deal of your Photoshop muscle memory, so even though the UI is very different from Photoshop’s, the keyboard won’t completely baffle you. That said, Adobe made a number of really odd decisions in keyboard mapping (how does “Q” map to clone/spot?) and you can wind up in an unexpected mode pretty quickly just by pressing one wrong button.

I am, by no means, an expert in Lightroom or Capture One. I am a heavy user. My observation is that the difference between the two is that the expert has a catalog of all the features in his or her head, whereas the heavy user knows how to access the features most commonly used. That means there may be some features I’ve overlooked or that weren’t important to me but would be important to someone else.

On the whole, I find the end product from Capture One is, for me, more quickly achieved and is of higher quality than had I used Lightroom for the same task.

A note on use of third-party filters: I used to regard the availability of filters such as the Nik filters or Portrait Pro as crucial “plus” features for Lightroom. At this point, I’ve revised that opinion because each time I want to reach for one of these filters, no matter which tool I’m using, I simply open the file in Photoshop, apply the effect on a layer, and more often than not paint it in only in the places I want to affect. Even with the precision of the NIK U-Point technology, I just can’t be sure beforehand that I’ll be able to isolate the areas sufficiently. So in either case, a round trip to Photoshop is required.

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Correct Exposure — Getting the Most From Your Bits

There has been a lot written about “Exposing to the Right” (ETTR). Most notable among the proponents of this approach to exposure is Luminous Landscape. Without knocking the approach taken in other blog articles about this technique, I believe they get bogged down in the science of it and don’t really concentrate on the technique itself.

Some Basic Facts

The deal is this: When we shot transparency film, there was (essentially) no post-processing we could do. So many of us got in the habit of underexposing by a small amount to increase perceived saturation. Chuck that out the window.

Fact 1: Digitally captured images, and particularly RAW images, retain a good deal of information that is not visible on your screen and in fact in the histogram your image editing software shows you. Some will quarrel with this statement, but it works out to be true in practice and the theory is boring.

Fact 2: It’s easier to deepen overexposed shadows than to open (recover) underexposed ones. Why does this matter? Because underexposed shadows are where most of the really nasty noise in your images will come from.

Fact 3: Your camera’s histogram will tell you what the sensor sees and therefore what is recorded in the RAW image. This will always be different from what your image processing software shows you. This matters a lot, and I’m about to explain why.

Now That We Know That, What to Do?

Most people perceive a pleasing image as one that is saturated. In landscape type images this is especially true. That typically translates to an underexposed image. It is also just what we used to do with transparency film. Big surprise, right? But what happens is that if we pathologically underexpose, it shackles us when we get to post-processing because we have discarded a lot of information about the shadows (the notion being that blown highlights are somehow worse than blocked up or noisy shadows).

The first really, really important thing is to shoot all your images in RAW. Without that, this technique is of far lesser value.

What to do when you are shooting is keep the histogram on your camera showing, or at least examine it regularly. Your camera’s meter will quite often optimize to create an image with values distributed around the mid-tone, but not really bumping up against the highlights — images that will look pleasing right on the back of the camera. To take advantage of the “expose to the right” Zen, you need to shoot test shots, opening your exposure (you can use exposure compensation or do it manually — your choice) until you start to blow the highlights out. Often, I find that is up to a full stop overexposed as compared to the meter’s normal reading.

Tip: Some people find that turning the camera’s feature to blink blown out highlights helps them find the correct exposure point.

So here is an image right out of camera that was exposed to the right:

Exposed to the Right

And here is the histogram:

Histogram Exposed to the Right

As you can see, the distribution of luminosity values (the lower histogram) is not a bell curve distributed around the middle. Rather, it is concentrated more toward the right side of the histogram, so most of the image information in mid-tone and highlight.

But, you say, the image is blah! I don’t want blah images. To which I would answer: Precisely, so let’s move a few sliders, to restore the blacks, add a little contrast back in, and presto, we get this:

Image After Adjustment

This is about 15 seconds of post processing to achieve a result with structured, detailed highlights, great mid tone detail, and beautiful rich blacks with no noise. Notice how much more detail there is in the clouds and the water?

For the record, here is the histogram after the tweaks:

Histogram After Adjustment

Wrap-Up

Exposing to the right is a great way to improve some of your image making. I should note that it will almost certainly slow you down as you work to get the rightmost good exposure. I also find this technique of little use in studio settings where I have absolute control of the lighting. But for walk-around shooting it can make for some very flexible images that will survive post-processing in spectacular form.

Note: This example image was made with a Canon 1Ds Mark III and the processing I’ve shown was done in Capture One. Results would be similar with pretty much any DSLR and also with Lightroom, Aperture, or Adobe Camera RAW.

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Even in Digital Photography, Glass Filters Still Matter

I recently returned from a trip to the Caribbean and packed very few glass filters. Many of the effects and color correction filters simply don’t matter anymore because they can be done in post-processing. But there are still a few that matter very much.

Filters I Still Carry

Skylight or UV

I use these to protect the lens and for no other reason. I’d rather scratch a filter than the lens glass. I cannot honestly say that either skylight or UV makes any apparent difference to my images. But every one of my lenses that isn’t a macro has one or the other on it.

Circular Polarizer

I always try to carry one of these filters. It’s not always necessary — in fact, it’s often unnecessary — but I’d rather have it and not use it than the other way around.

Cruise Ship off Grand Turk

This image (no correction, right out of camera) was shot with a circular polarizing filter. As you can see, the coral sea bottom is clearly visible. One of the effects of a circular polarizer when shooting water scenes is to reduce polarized glare, allowing for a clearer view of details below the surface. Nik Software has a wonderful polarizing tool in their Color Efex software. It’s important to note that this is an emulation of what might happen if you had used the glass filter to begin with. In the case of the image I’ve shown, the image information below the surface would have been lost in the glare, so the software emulation would not have reproduced the effect — it would have deepened the blues and slightly enhanced the contrast in the clouds, but that’s it.

Scratch and Star Filters

At night, these filters can lend some sparkle to an image. Again, the effect can be reconstructed in Photoshop, but many of us have better things to do with our time. And… there’s something special about a purely analog effect.

Gradient Neutral Density Filters

For those shooting RAW you might be thinking you’re off the hook with this one. What a gradient ND filter does is apply a neutral density (darkening) across one half of the frame. The filter can be rotated to match your horizon line. You use these when, for example, the sky is very bright as compared to the foreground. And why would the RAW shooters think they’re off the hook? Because you can fix it in Lightroom or Adobe Camera RAW. But again, the better your image is made, the more you will be able to do with it later. Getting it “right” in camera is the best first step you can take.

Neutral Density Filters

Regular ND filters darken everything. These tend not to be particularly useful in a travel or landscape setting, as you can normally drop the ISO to 100 or so and crank up the shutter speed. So unless you are looking for motion blur and shallow depth of field, they aren’t a carry-around filter. But… for small-studio work, you might find your lights are too bright to shoot portraits at flattering apertures (say, f/5.6 or so). An ND filter can really help out here by giving you back a stop.

Filters I No Longer Carry

  • Color Correction: I just can’t justify carrying any color-correction filters because I shoot everything in RAW and the chances are I will get a more accurate color rendering in post-processing than if I had guessed and used a filter in the field.
  • Color Effects: Similarly, for effect filters like the coffee or blue/yellow filters that were so cool on film, there is more flexibility shooting it neutrally in RAW and deciding on this kind of effect in post.
  • Soft-focus: Sadly, the soft-focus filter has found its way out of my gear bag. There are so many Photoshop techniques and add-on filters to get dreamy effects or flattering skin treatment that soft-focus in the world of still digital photography is (in my opinion) better left to post.
  • Warming, Landscape, etc.: Same as color correction. This can be handled with the tweak of a slider, be it color temperature, clarity…

And the Wrapup Is…

I still use glass filters, but sparingly. I typically get thin filters, as I have no need to stack them; it’s either the skylight or the polarizing filter — never both. Each time I get a new lens that has yet a different barrel size, I curse the lens manufacturer over the change and re-evaluate what kind of glass filter is absolutely necessary.

But with that said, now that digital is not a shiny new toy, I find myself thinking, “I’ll fix it in Photoshop later” a lot less. When you’re faced with thousands of images to process, the ones that get bypassed are the ones you have to “fix.” If there’s a way to get it right in camera, the original idea of the image might make it to the select pile of images (if there’s such a thing as a digital “pile”).

I’ve used a boatload of Photoshop tools and add-ons. By far the most useful are:

  • Adobe Camera RAW color balancing. This cannot be overstated. This is where your color correction filtering comes into your digital workflow. I’ll say it again: Get your color balanced how you want it using your RAW converter; anything after that is destroying perfectly good pixels.
  • Nik Color Efex Pro. These are about the coolest tools available for changing the color and applying effects way beyond what you can do in Camera RAW. You can download a demo copy and see how they work for you but be forewarned: They are addictive!

At the end of it all, I find that less is more in terms of applying filtration. If the image was captured correctly, then it should be a snap to post process it.

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Digital Infrared Photography

Some things go in cycles, and infrared photography is one of those things. It’s kind of a quirky way of recording an image — you record only the infrared part of the spectrum reflected from your subject.

A bit of history: Once upon a time we all shot film. Infrared film came in a number of different varieties. The primary distinction was color or black & white and if you see IR images now, you are probably looking mostly at black & white. The black & white infrared film had the eerie characteristic of haloing or blooming around the highlights, making the image look not only somewhat negative but also gauzy or even ghostly.

Fast forward to digital. The way people started out doing digital infrared was to use something like an R72 or an 87 filter — a deep red that cut all the light except the infrared. It has an immense filter factor, so exposures have to be extremely long.

Infrared Sensor Filters

At this point, enter a company called LifePixel. They are based in Washington State (USA) and will convert your digital camera to shoot only infrared. I mean only infrared. They do this by replacing the highpass filter that normally goes over the sensor with one that only allows the infrared part of the spectrum to pass. Sound familiar? But the beauty of this solution is that exposures are of normal duration — i.e., if you were shooting f/8 at 125th of a second with your normal DSLR, then it would be pretty much the same with the converted one. This reduces the need for extraordinarily long exposures.

Color Infrared

Here is an example of an image shot in raw on a converted Canon 20D with no post-processing:

Unprocessed Infrared

You may notice somewhat brown skies along with the signature white trees and ghostly look associated with infrared. The image is pretty much monochromatic. However, the cut filter does allow the sensor to detect a bit of color and since it is recording in RGB, it doesn’t look quite like a black & white infrared. There are two directions to go with this. The first is to do some smart juggling in Photoshop:

For this image, I did a bit of levels adjustment to bring up the whites and darken the blacks, added an S-curve to enhance contrast, then the important part: Used the Channel Mixer to mix red to 100% blue and blue to 100% red. Green is left alone. This makes the sky blue and gives the appearance of a color infrared. You can read a bit more here.

Black & White Infrared

I’m not crazy about the weird color infrared look, preferring, instead, the stark black & white look. Here’s the same image done as a black & white.

Black & White Infrared

For this image, I simply took the image from the first version, popped it into Nik Silver Efex Pro, made a few adjustments, and voila!

Conditions for Infrared

Infrared light does not reflect off everything, so don’t think you’re going to make all kinds of keen night shots and so on… You have to test and try and feel out what looks best in infrared. One thing you will see right away is that foliage is wicked cool in infrared. It’s so easy, you’ll find yourself developing a magnetic attraction to all things green even if you are allergic to plants. Other subjects that are absolutely amazing in infrared are structured cloudy skies. That is, thunderstorm style clouds where there are darker and lighter areas of cloud. Just plain overcast won’t be as much fun.

Finally, cityscapes can be eerie in the best possible way in infrared, but as with many infrared subjects, your mileage may vary. These are particularly sensitive to the direction of the light so some experimentation is necessary to get some usable shots.

Summary

Infrared is a really fun technique and one that really cannot be duplicated in post-processing. It’s the result of a particular part of the spectrum falling on the sensor — this part of the spectrum is absent once a digital image is captured on a normal camera.

However, converting a camera to infrared means you are sacrificing a camera. One use only, which is why I mentioned that these images were made on a 20D — obviously, this was an older camera and one that could be sacrificed at the altar of infrared.

One additional change that should be made is that of focus. This is important to understand. Different bandwidths of light are focused by the lens at different locations. Because infrared has a wavelength longer than that of visible light, lenses are not optimized to focus it at exactly the sensor plane. As a result, you either need to modify your lens to focus appropriately, or you need to take this into account yourself by refocusing manually. Because you cannot perceive infrared light with your eyes, you absolutely cannot focus for infrared by eye. LifePixel performs this modification to lenses, which makes it an obvious choice as opposed to using an IR filter.

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Everybody’s a Photographer

Well, I said I was moving my blog to a different server and it happened. Now that that’s over, it’s back to some photography posts.

The camera industry has done an all-around good job of making photography accessible to nearly everyone. Two cheers to them. Three cheers to the mobile phone industry. They are the ones who have really made everybody a photographer. Not every cell-phone image is art, but many are images that would never have been made if the photographer had relied on having his or her camera on hand.

If you are a serious photographer, you may be wondering why cell-phone images matter. I can’t answer that for everyone, but for me they matter because they are taken of pretty much anything and everything in the human experience. By devices that fit in a pocket or purse. By your phone! The rules are a bit changed but the game is the same. With a big expensive camera or with a cell phone the things that matter most are where you point it and when you push the button.

So, if you are tempted to dismiss cell-phone photography as “just fooling around,” give it another thought.

County Fair — Hipstamatic

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Security — What It Means to You: READ THIS!

This title may seem a bit odd for a photographer’s blog, but there are a couple of reasons why you should be concerned. What triggers this post is the emergence of a Wi-Fi hacking tool called Firesheep. I’m not going to provide a link and have never used it but I know what it does. And its sobering.

What’s The Threat?

If you use open Wi-Fi networks, what you do online can be watched and in many cases a “watcher” can immediately impersonate you on Facebook, Twitter, Amazon, and so on. Banking and other financial sites, not so much.

What’s an Open Wi-Fi Network?

For the sake of this article, it’s a network you just “jump on” in a public place like an Internet Cafe, coffee shop, airport. Basically, it’s free Wi-Fi where you don’t know all the other people with access to the network. And for travelers (and we photographers travel), these open Wi-Fi networks are valuable and many of us use them regularly.

What Happens With This “Firesheep”?

The author of Firesheep created it as an example of how insecure many Web sites that require login can be. He is unapologetic about the potential damage he has done, and claims it is a force to make developers of Web sites clean up their acts. In the meantime, your accounts and your data are at risk.

An oversimplification of Firesheep is that someone running it wanders into a free Wi-Fi area and sets up shop. It’s stupid simple. They then wait until Firesheep shows a list of other people on the network and some of the sites they are logged into. The Firesheep user can, with the click of a mouse, hijack the “session” of an unsuspecting user. That makes said Firesheep user appear to be said unsuspecting user. So, take the example of Joe Photographer, who is logged into Facebook, the bad guy Firesheep user can easily impersonate Joe and take steps like these: Change Joe’s password, deface Joe’s wall, upload embarrassing images to Joe’s photo galleries, and all without Joe knowing a thing. As with any identity theft, it’s hard to know the extent of the damage.

And it’s not entirely fair to single out Facebook. Almost every site that requires logging in also uses these “sessions” and many are open to this exact kind of session hijacking. It’s also not accurate to single out Firesheep, as it builds on well-understood hacking techniques but does so in such a user-friendly way that it makes it really easy for your friends to play a malicious prank on you and for bad guys to do worse. It lowers the technology bar on who can do this stuff. Again, I’m not a hacker, but I do watch out for potential risks in an effort to stay safe online.

So, It’s Not Just Facebook? How Can I Tell What’s Safe?

Your browser displays a “lock” icon to show you when you are browsing to what’s called a “secure site.” When the lock icon is showing, all the information your exchange with the site is encrypted and even if Firesheep could see it, the data would be of no use to it. That’s safe. But as soon as the lock disappears, you are back in the clear and at risk again. These sites might include your blog(!), your photo agency… you get the picture.

So, boiling this down, if you go to a secure (lock icon) login page and get yourself logged into xyz.com, then immediately go to an unsecured page, this “session” thingie exists and can then be hijacked. Good that your login and password exchange didn’t happen in the clear, but you are not safe. Only if the lock icon remains showing are you safe. That is the exception rather than the rule because secure sites are expensive to operate.

On the other hand, there are lots of sites where you simply don’t care if the Firesheep user has a peek behind your kimono. Who cares if they watch you read the news or check out the sports scores? That would be the digital equivalent of peeking over your shoulder. Who cares if they watch you read your favorite photography blog. No login, no problem.

What Can I Do About It?

Basically, for the time being, give up on free Wi-Fi. It’s that simple. There are some so-so alternatives. If you have a mobile device like an iPhone, iPad, Android, etc., just shut off the Wi-Fi and use the cellular connection. Slower, yes. Safer for right now.

If you are using a laptop or device without cellular connect, consider one of the closed cellular hotspot devices. Word has it that the Sprint device is relatively affordable, works in many locations, and offers some protection against this particular security risk.

What About Dedicated iPhone, Android, and iPad Apps?

Still not safe. You can’t know how they exchange login information but know that they do exchange that information. Best not to use them on open Wi-Fi.

Where Can I Read More?

TechCrunch says this. Although you can figure out where to get Firesheep from this article, I would beg you not to take it out for a test drive. Please?

WikiPedia says this. They recommend a VPN (kinda geeky stuff) and another Firefox extension. The VPN is not trivial to set up but it is effective if you can live with its limitations. The extension doesn’t solve the problems of mobile devices or computers running browsers other than Firefox.

PCWorld says this. This is a pretty balanced report.

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Two Simple But Effective Lightroom Tricks

One thing Apple got really right in Aperture was to make a zoom center wherever you clicked. So, if you click on a model’s eye, you see a zoomed version of that eye. Lightroom, by defaut, zooms to center, so if you click on that eye, you might get the bellybutton.

Tip #1: Zoom Clicked Point to Center

Choose the Preferences item from the Lightroom menu (this is different in Windows, I know… you’ll find it).

In the dialog box that comes up, in the “tweaks” section, tick the “Zoom clicked point to center” checkbox.

Dismiss the dialog and just like that, zooming happens to the point you choose!

Tip #2: Use Stacking Wisely

Aperture and Lightroom have a concept called stacking. If you are unfamiliar with it, imagine your images are a deck of cards, and they are arranged by suit. The top card is what shows and there are four stacks — one for each suit.

That’s kind of what happens when you stack your pictures. They take up a ton less space on the screen, and allow you to group them visually. So here’s an example: When shooting this model, we chose a them, took a number of shots, waited a minute or two to discuss the next theme, then moved into those shots.

Autostacking

There is a very cool feature called autostacking that takes advantage of the fact that photographers often shoot “in bursts”, as I described. Just go to Photo > Stacking > Auto-Stack by Capture Time. You can adjust the sensitivity slider to account for how long or short your pauses were, but the best guess of a minute is normally good.

Now that you have only a fraction of the images on the screen you had before, the question how to open up (expand) one of the stacks. The trick is to recognize a stack. Here is what one looks like:

See the little number 17 in the upper left corner of the image? That means there are 17 images in the stack including the one chosen to represent the stack. To open it up, the first thing many people do is unstack the photos. Not a good choice. What you want to do is “expand” the stack. To do this, click on the image representing the stack and press the S key.

As you can see, the highlighted image on the left is the top of the stack, and the dimmer frames are all the images contained in the stack. You can now edit or do whatever you like with these images. And you can press S on any one of them to collapse the entire stack neatly into place when you’re done.

There are many more stacking options including arranging the images within the stack and choosing the stack image. Just shop around the menus or check out the Adobe help for more tips on how to do this.

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Using NIK Filters to Enhance Digital Photography

If you are doing much digital image processing, you are probably aware of the great tools from NIK Software. Calling these tools Photoshop filters is doing them an injustice. They are, for many photography professionals and avid amateurs, core tools. They are also free from the confines of Photoshop-only, integrating with Adobe Lightroom and Apple Aperture — great image processing tools in their own right.

The NIK product line includes:

  • Sharpener Pro (the tool that started it all!)
  • Color Efex Pro
  • DFine
  • Silver Efex Pro
  • Viveza
  • HDR Efex Pro

They also created one of the key technologies that makes Nikon Capture NX such a great piece of manufacturer-provided RAW image conversion software.

It’s not like me to focus on a single vendor and spotlight a product, but these tools have proven their effectiveness and quality to me daily over the years I’ve been using them. However, in attending an event presented by NIK recently about their new HDR Efex Pro, it became clear to me that some people don’t exactly “get” why these tools are so useful.

U Point Technology

Rather than go into a laundry list of everything each tool does, I’m going to point out the concept I feel is most important to grasp in order to unlock the potential of these tools. For the sake of simplicity, I’ll only talk about Viveza — a tool whose name discloses little about what it does. All the other tools have similar interfaces, so picking only one is not necessarily doing a disservice to the others.

Viveza — What Does It Do?

In my mind, Viveza is a tool that allows you to selectively adjust various attributes of a selected tonal range. Don’t let the fancy words put you off, using it is much simpler than describing it. Here’s an example: Say you have an image of a vineyard and you think, “nice pattern, but the dirt didn’t come up as red as I remembered it, the leaves of the vines were way greener, and the clouds had lots more relief.” If you’re like me and process a lot of images, that kind of images is one that might get punted as a rescue project. But with Viveza — and more particularly, U Point — it’s pretty darn easy to make the kind of adjustment I described.

Let’s Get to A Picture

A picture is worth 1,000 words, so here we go. I used Photo > Edit In > Viveza 2 from Lightroom to open the Lightroom Viveza plugin. Here is the image, and you can see it needs some help.

Viveza Interface

Global Adjustments

The first thing I would do is to work on overall exposure and color, which is what Viveza does when in “Global” mode (i.e., no control point selected). The sliders on the right control these global adjustments. These should be familiar to you, as they are pretty much the same ones as you see in Lightroom and Adobe Camera RAW. Although you can’t see it in the screen grab, you can affect:

  • Brightness
  • Contrast
  • Saturation
  • Structure
  • Shadow Adjustments
  • Warmth
  • Red
  • Green
  • Blue
  • Hue

Of these, structure is the only one that is really foreign to most non-Viveza (or non-NIK software) users. I think of structure as being similar to clarity in Lightroom or definition in Aperture. Nobody really says what it does, but my interpretation of the image changes is that there is a subtle increase in midtone contrast. That also increases the appearance of sharpness without the haloing and pixel damage caused by one of the more traditional sharpening algorithms.

The image I chose was properly exposed and the tones pretty evenly distributed so for this example, I left the global adjustments alone.

Adding a Control Point

If you don’t get anything else out of this blog post, get this: Control points are the most important thing you can learn about any of the NIK tools. And… it’s not like using the pen tool in Photoshop. This one is easy. To do it, I just click the control point icon:

Control Point

and place it on the area I want to affect. In this case, I want to make the earth redder.

Here’s where the real power comes into play. What that little ladder-like thingie I placed there does is allow me to change the tonal values of just the colors under the point. Now, I tell U Point how much of the image (roughly) I want to affect. I do this by grabbing the slider marked by the circular blob and dragging it left or right. You’ll see a circle expand or contract to describe the areas considered by Viveza for the correction:

As you can see, the circle encompasses the dirt, but also the green vines and some of the sky. If you’re familiar with Photoshop selection, you might be thinking, “this is a nightmare … it’ll never work,” but check out what Viveza thought about it:

I select the show/hide mask for all control points icon and presto!

As you can see, the white areas are the only areas Viveza will target for the adjustments. The subtlety and detail of this mask is amazing and the amount of work I did to get it was almost zero. So now I press that show/hide mask icon again and drag a few sliders around to achieve the effect. Note that because the control point is selected, I can use the sliders in the main part of the interface as equivalent to those on the control point “ladder.”

I increased the warmth, red, yellow (that is, decreased the blue), increased saturation and reduced brightness. If you compare this to the image at the top of this post, you’ll see two things. First, the vines and sky were completely unaffected by this change because of the precision of the mask. Second, the earth is now redder as it was in the original scene.

Finishing the Adjustments

To complete the adjustments, I added a control point centered on one of the leaves of the grape vines. The circle was extended to cover the entire field. I added green and increased the saturation. Additionally, I added a control point in the clouds and extended the circle to cover the entire sky. For this adjustment, I added structure and contrast, while reducing the brightness.

And the Wrap-Up

The real power, to me, of the NIK tools is their ability to cut masks with precision and subtlety so I can control the color and intensity of various parts of the image. As important is the ability to do this fast. I have a lot of post-processing to do, so anything that impedes this is a non-starter. Viveza is a great example of a tool that enhances rather that blocking productivity.

Give it a try. NIK has demo downloads available on their Web site, so you can test drive. They also have lots of tutorial material online so you can get more detailed information about all their products.

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RAW Image Processors for Your Digital Photography

On 5/27/2010, Phase One made the announcement that they had acquired Microsoft Expression Media as one of their product offerings. That got me thinking about the fusion between Digital Asset Managers (DAM) and RAW Image Processing programs. Assuming in some future incarnation, Phase One merges Expression Media with Capture One, that would put their Capture One software on a par with Adobe’s Lightroom and Apple’s Aperture. So, having set the context and named the players, there is are a few other items to get out of the way:

What are RAW Image Processors?

Most Pro and Prosumer digital cameras record image data in a format called Camera RAW. Oversimplified, this means the image data recorded by the sensor is saved intact to the file, and any image interpretation like color temperature or saturation is kept separate. This is as distinctly opposed to cameras that save files in the JPEG format, where the image adjustments are applied in-camera and saved as a whole, tossing out a certain amount of the original image data. What this means to you, the photographer, is that you have opportunities after the image has been captured to revisit critical decisions like color balance, black point, white point, contrast, and so on. To a limited extent, you can even adjust exposure on an improperly exposed image, but that’s really not what RAW was intended for and you should never rely on being able to save a poorly exposed image just because you shot RAW.

Once RAW became popular, software that could interpret this format and turn it into something usable in Photoshop became a new category. Just sprang into existence as a new software category. Just like that! So the primary job of a RAW Image Processor is to do the magic to interpret the sensor data and allow you to perform some rudimentary adjustments on the original data. That’s the minimum and it’s probably about as far as anyone thought it through when the concept of postponing crucial image processing decisions to post-processing was originally formed.

The current crop of software is:

  • Adobe Camera RAW (ACR), which ships with Photoshop
  • Adobe Lightroom, which uses the same ACR engine mentioned above
  • Apple Aperture, a completely different beast by Apple Computer only for Macintosh computers
  • Capture One, by Phase One, which has a medium-format Phase One Digital Back heritage
  • DxO Optics

Other software exists, but these are the top ones in current use today.

What are Digital Asset Managers?

Digital Asset Managers, which have the unfortunate acronym “DAM”, have only a couple of requirements:

  • They need to be able to catalog large numbers of images
  • Their image catalog must encompass online (attached hard disk) and offline (removable hard disk, DVD, etc.) media
  • The catalog must be sortable and searchable
  • You should be able to do some level of metadata manipulation using your DAM, such as titling, keywording, and captioning

In this category of pure DAMs, you have:

Of these, Portfolio seems to have the most general acceptance.

DAMs are YAGNI (You Ain’t Gonna Need It — until you do) software. You may have different needs, but most relatively prolific shooters don’t need the capabilities in these software packages, but the do need other capabilities way more. What are those capabilities? Read on…

The Combined DAM/RAW Image Processor

This is my name for the category currently occupied by Lightroom and Aperture, and very possibly soon to be joined by Phase One. That last is just a crystal ball prediction on my part. Speculation. So I previously described the minimum a RAW image processor needs to do. The questions really become “what are the common things they do?” and “what are the evaluation points?”

For what I say below to make sense, I need to make my position clear: I post-process a lot of images and like to keep the time per image to a minimum. Heck, who doesn’t? But I’m really trying for 5 minutes per image in post processing. To a large degree I’m succeeding. So, with that in mind, here is a matrix of who does what in the DAM/RAW market:

LightroomApertureCapture OneCapture One + Expression Media
Raw ProcessingGoodGoodExcellentExcellent
AdjustmentsGoodGood[1]Good[2]Good[2]
Adjustment BrushesGood+Good+NoneNone
Gradient AdjustmentGreatNoneNoneNone
Spot/PatchGood[3]Good[4]AcceptableAcceptable
C/A Adjustment[6]AcceptableAcceptableAcceptableAcceptable
Tethered ShootingAcceptableUnacceptableGoodGood
Database[5]GoodGood+NoneUnknown

Overall on the Comparison Matrix

The matrix is full of footnotes. Read those below for more detail on each noted entry. Now, for the sake of this remaining discussion, I’ll assume Capture One + Expression Media means Capture One 5 + Expression Media 2. They will probably want to blend the packages together in a future release to be more competitive with Lightroom and Aperture.

Without adjustment brushes, the overall usefulness of the tool is significantly decreased, as you can’t target specific areas for enhancement or exposure adjustments. Lightroom has the gradient adjustment, which allows you to create a sort of adjustable split neutral density filter. Aperture allows you to create multiple adjustments where you can apply them to the whole image, brush in specific areas, or apply them to the image and just brush out specific areas. Capture One is missing adjustment brushes.

The metadata entry in Aperture seems more natural than Lightroom. Lightroom tries to be too helpful and it seems very difficult to get the exact metadata I want in a Lightroom image. But it’s doable. In Capture One, you can enter metadata, but it only persists if you export the file as TIFF or JPEG. If you export as DNG, then the adjustments and metadata evaporate.

Tethered shooting can be a big deal for studio shooting, as it exposes lots of unseen problems in corners or with exposure before you pull the whole shoot and lighting arrangement down. Capture One would have gotten an Excellent, except that — at least for Canon — they can’t control the camera settings other than the shutter release. I haven’t tried Lightroom’s tethered shooting but it is rumored to be about the same. Aperture has tethered shooting, but they haven’t really put it together. The “approved” solution is a hackery of setting a “Hot Folder” by using an AppleScript that some guy wrote and then using the Canon EOS Utility software to fire off the shots. It’s slow, error-prone, and just not up to pro standards.

The summary is that there is no single perfect tool. There is a ton of overlap and from version to version, one tool will pull slightly ahead of another in ease of use or in terms of “killer feature you can’t do without”. It’s still a multi-tool environment.


[1] Aperture adjustments contain “Definition” which is “Clarity” in Lightroom or ACR. However, Lightroom allows for negative as well as positive values of Clarity, allowing for some skin softening or gauzy effects. As a make-up provision, Aperture has a skin-softening adjustment brush.

[2] Capture One has Vibrance, but not Clarity. Clarity is really just a midtone contrast enhancement, but it’s way easier to add with a simple slider than with curves.

[3] Spotting and patching in Lightroom are intuitive because you can create a target area, then drag the source area around until you have the look you want. Adobe owns the live preview feature in this respect.

[4] Aperture allows you to brush in spotting and patching, more as you would in Photoshop, but in a non-destructive manner. This is nice, especially for areas that aren’t circular — in other words, not spots. But… it’s slow and you have to wait for it to re-render to figure out whether the results are acceptable.

[5] The database feature is the one that sets Lightroom and Aperture apart from Capture One. You can catalog your images — up to a point, using Lightroom or Aperture, then do pretty good searching on the metadata, including when the image was made, what keywords were included, the camera, etc.

[6] Chromatic aberration is one of those “your mileage may vary” features. Capture One was made with the Phase One digital backs in mind. It has a catalog of back/lens combinations that ostensibly allow it to do some useful lens defect correction. They have no similar catalog for DSLRs. With that background, Lightroom and Aperture both take the same approach: They look for high contrast vertical lines and allow you to reduce the yellow/blue or red/cyan fringing. Sometimes, and to some extent. Capture One has an “analyze” feature where it looks at the image and tries to make a best guess from that. Additionally, it allows for some automated elimination of purple fringing.

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Zooming In Photoshop CS4 and CS5

I’ll assume you’ve used a few versions of Photoshop and noticed the changes Adobe made in CS4, and now in CS5. To be clear, in CS4, Adobe added a “feature” that displays a pixel grid once you have zoomed to a certain level. In CS5, Adobe changed the default behavior of the zoom tool such that when you click and drag the zoom tool, the zooming happens as in an animation.

I hate both of these features. I don’t like the visual “noise” interjected by the pixel grid, so let’s first figure out how to get rid of that. Shopping through the preferences panel (Cmd+K on a Mac) reveals … um, nothing. So, a bit more Googling and messing around and presto! Go to View > Show > Pixel Grid and make sure it is unchecked. The first step in figuring this out was to identify the actual Adobe-approved name for the feature (Pixel Grid), then figure out how to turn it off.

Now, the second, and more frustrating, of these features is the zooming one. Figuring out what this feature is called took a bit more persistence. Pro-Tip: It’s called “Scrubby Zooming.” To turn it off and make it so you can again draw a marquee with the zoom tool to do your zooming, first select the zoom tool in the tool well. Then, with the zoom tool selected, look in the tool bar at the top, and uncheck “scrubby zooming.”

And now you’re back!

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